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The Napa Valley Wine Train was the best meal of the trip.

Those endowed with more sophisticated palates wouldn’t, perhaps, have opted for a “bloody spicy Bloody Mary” as an aperitif. But sod those with more sophisticated palates.

Napa was the bomb. Our hotel was pristine, and boasted only one incredibly drunk young American girl. In each corner.

In the morning the folks at the Miner vineyard gave us a complimentary tasting and tour of their cellars. For the first time in a very long time, I drank a $90 bottle of red. It was, frankly, wasted on me, but I appreciated the gesture.

What impresses me most about the Californian wine industry is the brutal lack of pomp and churlishness. If you’ve ever been to a tasting in France, then you’ll know what I’m talking about.

Here in Napa, if you say you’re getting “blackberry, hibiscus and charcoal, with undertones of gasoline and a caramel finish,” you’ll get a “whatever, but do you like it” in reply.

Wine is there for the enjoyment. We enjoyed it.

We drove to San Francisco. Long way. The Chrysler 300 served us well. We didn’t fight once about the music*.

The Hotel Diva was our host in downtown San Francisco. Just off Union Square, opposite a theater (spelling intentional) and perfectly located for doing just about anything you’d want to do over three nights.

The bums and the panhandlers were out in force:  a charming and eccentric (and downright fucking crazy) bunch, who, irrespective of their asking you each two steps if you could spare a dollar, didn’t snarl when you said no.

Lauren dragged us up three blocks (and about 600 feet further above sea-level) to grab a “slice of pie” (this is Jersey for “pizza”). She chose a popular place. So popular we were ignored for fifteen minutes while we waited for a table.

So we left, and had Guinness and oysters at Foleys, then hit up Biscuits and Blues for some of the more impressive people-watching of the trip. Everybody in there could have stepped straight out of Tales of the City. (The musical version of which was playing right opposite our hotel.)

Rodney, the concierge at the Hotel Diva was everything you’d want and expect in a San Francisco concierge:  slightly camp, incredibly well-dressed, garrulous and with an eye for a bargain.

He said of the Tenderloin district. “Mmm, you’ll probably want to avoid that area, there’s really nothing there for you.”

First thing next morning, I’m pounding the streets of the Tenderloin, looking for a haircut. I found Public Barber Salon. (That’s Public with an “L”.)

“Will you cut my hair?”

“Yes. Would you like a beer?”

Ah, yes, I liked these folk at Public very much. My hair was cut by the sylph-like Diane, who was as good a source of stuff to get up to in SF as Rodney. I regret not being able to take up her suggestion of Bourbon and Branch – a Prohibition-style speakeasy.

After the usual hemming and hawing over how much to tip, and leaving, once again, with the sensation that I’d somehow sullied our brilliant relationship by being stingy, I jumped on one of those godawful sightseeing buses.

It was bloody good. But very windy.

(Incidentally, when I told Rodney how much I’d paid for the haircut, he mock-fainted and told me he never pays more than eight dollars.)

Six hours later, and I’m nursing a beer at Lefty O’Doul’s, where Dan, who might be the most knowledgeable and playboy-like sexaganarian barman in the city gave me the low-down on the history of the pub, about which I took copious notes, which I lost.

Amy then suggested improv comedy, which I imagine always sounds like a good idea at the time. It was worth the $7.50 a head, but only just.

Sunday was a proud day. I had my first corn-dog. I’ll happily wait another thirty years before the next, but it’s done. Hannah from Stop Being Crap showed us around. Saw the sea-lions at Fisherman’s Wharf, drank some sangria and ate calamari and chips (which was the first non-fries description of fried potatoes I’ve seen in three weeks.)

Drinks at The Daily Grill in the evening.

Monday morning went to see the boys at DailyBooth. VERY smart bunch.

So smart, I set myself up an account. If you can’t get enough of me, then now you really can.

*we may have actually fought about the music.

Vacations frequently change the course of my life. I often end up packing and moving to wherever it is I’ve been for a couple of weeks.

It happened in Malaysia, Italy, Malta and, er, Belgium.

There’ s a ton of other places still on the to-do list: New York, Bangkok, the Mexican riviera, Copenhagen.

So far on this trip, LA has been a “definitely one day soon”. San Diego a “not really”. Phoenix and Vegas a “definitely no” and the Napa Valley falls into the “would happily retire here one day” category.

It looks like Tuscany here. The food and wine are world-beating. The hotel – the River Terrace Inn – had better do long-term rentals, because it’s exactly the type of place I picture myself in twenty years’ time, pottering around on a pushbike and drinking light whites for lunch, and reds for dinner.

Two days ago I woke up in Vegas, pounded the Strip until the sun pounded me, and retired for a haircut.

There’s a boutique at the Mandalay Place that does a shave for $55. Yep. That’s $55 to shave your face.

Worth every penny.

They also cut your hair, but couldn’t do mine in good time (not that I have a particularly difficult pate, but more of a scheduling issue.) It’s on the bucket list, along with Napa Valley.

We went to see Absinthe in the evening.

It was the best show I’ve ever seen, bar none. So good, it’s getting a post of its own somewhere that people will read it.

If you’re in Vegas, or anywhere near Vegas, or even if you’re far away, and want an old-fashioned, edgy, cabaret-style night out that will leave you crying with laughter and talking about what you saw for days, go and see Absinthe.

The meat of the show is nothing you’ve not seen before. But it’s the lazy, faux-drunk circus performances, the proximity to the action, and the startling profanity that leave you walking away with a headache from the intensity of the experience.

Go and see it.

We went to visit Zappos the following morning. Again: so good it’s getting a post of its own somewhere people will read it. It’s a shoe shop. Just a shoe shop. But so much more. If you don’t leave the offices wanting to work there, you’re either a beer-taster or tit-jiggler by trade.

Nine hours to Napa was a long ride. Lauren, thankfully, didn’t make us walk it.

We stopped for lunch ($6.99 all-you-can-eat buffet) at the Gold Strike just west of Vegas. A fucking dump, but full of character. A good place to take your date if your date is a crack-whore, and for that reason, illicitly appealing.

It’s the second casino I’ve seen with syringe disposal units in the restrooms. The first was a casino attached to a gas station on an Indian reserve outside of San Diego.

And then there was Napa Valley.

To be away from the desert heat is a blessing. To have breakfast on the Wine Train a benediction. To sit by the pool and write this post in the sun a boon.

San Francisco tomorrow. Lock up your mothers.

Spent Sunday at the pool at the Clarendon. It was like 1976 summer break. If Hugh Hefner had a hotel in Phoenix, it would be this one. Check out the video here.

Barely survived doing a load of laundry in Phoenix’s hairiest downtown laundromat.

Cleaning clothes is traumatic at the best of times. In the desert, on an empty strip, with nothing but shifty bandidos (probably) for company, it’s probably better to go dirty.

But I’m made of nails and broken glass, so I stuck it out, looking un-muggable until it was done.

We were up at four a.m. for a flight in a hot-air balloon, courtesy of Hot Air Expeditions. Stunning views over the whole of Phoenix. Champagne breakfast in the aftermath in the smallest airstrip-cum-trailerpark you’ve likely ever seen.

We started out drive to Vegas.

Amy left her ID at the hotel.

We started our drive to Vegas again.

Amy decided she wanted cruise control (she’s doing most of the driving) so we headed to Fox at Phoenix Airport and charmed Scott, the city manager, into giving us a Chrysler 300.

Pimpin’.

We started our drive to Vegas again.

Fast forward eight hours, a side-trip to the Hoover Dam and a check in at the Embassy Suites, and we’re drinking cocktails at The Peppermill with Las Vegas’ friendliest nude and fetish model – Wonderhussy, who loaded us in the back of her pickup for a night-time tour of the strip, more cocktails at O’Shea’s, and an expensive half hour at the blackjack tables.

I love this town.